Taroko National Park / Hualien

Hualien….another stop on the trip around Taiwan, only two hours of train journey from Taitung and what a difference it is, no not the town itself as the convenient stores 7 eleven & family market are present in every city but it is something else that attracted me to here. No not a female specimen of exceptional beauty or maybe yes as it is Nature and it is wonder of Taroko Gorge. This is one stop on the journey across the Taiwan what is not related to diving as diving is the main focus of this trip but when you see such beauty just stone throw away, would be shame not to go there and throw the stone or slow tourist taking the whole path off the cliff. Seriously I love countries with ocean and mountains as hiking and diving are my two favorite past time activities  together with cycling so three allright, math was never my friend, well one more too but that is probably not counting as past time activity :-p

              Arrived to the Hualien and since I was lazy or comfortable I booked WOW Hostel right opposite the train station what is 10 stories building painted bright green with sign WOW on the façade so when I looked at the screen of smart phone try to locate the way to hostel I could not see the hostel right front of me 😊 what a eejit, looking down on screen instead of front of me. Room should be ready at 15:00 so I went on walkabout to see the town and some of the nice streets since it was only 13:00 when I arrived, nice town but as any other and in fairness I came here because of nature wonder of Taroko Gorge so town is necessary stop. Eventually after second walk the room was ready when I arrived at 20:00 and I could lay down on my double upper bunk bed nice and comfy behind curtain, to fell off to dream land so I will be fresh for next day hike.

              I was so excited ‘as teenager before first sex’ that I woke up three times in the night, maybe the fact that colleague from bottom bunk went for piss and left door open so not only that light came on in the room ‘thanks to fecking movement sensors’ but also the noise as he practiced hitting the bullseye in the toilet bowl. Anyhow eventually I just got up at 6:30 since I could not sleep anymore with anticipation and if I was dog I would probably wave tail. Got up, took back pack and head off to healthy breakfast of lettuce, corn, cucumber and carrot with raisins and some sort of dressing and cup of tea, while have small talk with French couple about the hikes since they thought that I was French and then head off to bus station nearly hour earlier as I cannot wait to there but had time to stop at 7 eleven to get some fuel so long day. Have to say that the energy gel and ricin nigiri is sufficient for the hikes since nature makes me high as if I have plug in me arse and charging on high voltage.  On the bus stop and ready to go but first thing first and answer nature call in not so nice place of bus station but hey when you have to go, you have to go and surroundings are not important. Ticket to be purchased as per advice from hostel is 400 dollars for two days and as I went to buy it I just asked the girl in green jersey ‘not noticed that it was Ireland jersey’ where is the stop and as she confirmed my expectation she added that I can use the smart card as ticket but I went to get a two days ticket as it supposed to be cheaper and which bloke listens to girl anyway. Ticket in hand get into line and who is in line beside me…. Green jersey so we strike conversation as you do if  you are me 😊 and started chatting, after realizing that she is from Ireland we stuck like Guinness to the bar coaster and chatted away all the way on the bus , she ignoring advice of her friends ‘do not talk to strangers’ as everyone is probably psycho and rapist waiting for a chance to snatch girl from overcrowded bus full of people with sticks.  Anyhow, we just chatted on palns and since we are both on no schedule whatsoever we agreed ‘more less I asked if can join’ that we could hike together and as we approached the first nice hike Shakadang and we were looking at each othere when she said shall we strat here instead of the last stop …? So we run for our life as we were the last one decided to leave the bus so scrambled backpacks and our limbs the bus spit us out and we were on fresh air instead of recycling freezing air condition. Flipflops changed for five fingers and top of sleeves vest changed for sport white NIKE quick dry top as I do sweat like a shower is permanently above my head we were ready for the start to rock the trail after overtake all the pensioners on the trip and some other leisurely walking tourist until we were in lead ‘not important to win but hey no one is blocking the views’ so we were walking and admiring the trail as the map said that we need few hours to complete this trail. Well what can I say the views are beautiful, water running in the gorge making the nice noise while flowing through the rocky river bed with all the greenery of high hills above the river as if they were just chiseled from one piece or someone just slide one giant cutting board style rock from both sides. Eventually we reached the end of the trail in one hour what was mentioned in guide that it needs two hours or more and therefore since we had a glorious sunny with little overcast but hot day we decided to continue to the Datong village as this is on top of one of the many hills and the view from it was great as well as from the road to there. The climb was great up the steep steps of winding trail through dense vegetation with birds chirping ‘when we shut up yapping we could hear them’ and when the path opened for few narrow meters, what a view ahhh sweet lord, nature and naked woman always take my breath away as the most beautiful things in the world and in case of naked woman, if she have genuine laugh and smile it is a heave on earth. Well as we approached some houses we thought we were there but no the Datong sits latterly on the ridge of the mountain so you can feel like God looking down the lush green valleys below you with sunrays broking from the overcast clouds playing with your eyes. Also the three black and one white puppies and one dog welcoming us right on the path leading to the Datong and happily jumping on our legs ‘not humping though’ who stayed with us all the time, even when taking photos but for some reason as soon as we started taking photos they sat down and waited. We said good bye to one rusty truck as we were leaving Datong village on the way to Dali village. We took different path since it is nice to explore more and this time we took the forest road build for lodging timber since it was more even and we had time schedule to reach the bus on time to make it for last bus as otherwise we would have to hike all the way back to civilization. We have met couple running up the hill to the Datong and then again we met them as they came back down to bus station, also one local family with two kids going up hill to camping in Datong village what would be a great as I have the same idea when we were there to stay for one night in this beautiful quiet place observe sunset and sunrise. During the chat with them we were told that there is hostel and we could stay there if we wanted as the father showed us business card with number for it and I was immediately turned my eyes back in the direction of the Datong … some other day. Eventually we did come back to the Taroko Terrace and finished our little loop of three hikes of 17km in the same time as the map mentioned for one of them. Great day of hiking through fabulous nature with breathtaking views and in great company of Laura as we introduced each other after nearly two hours in hike time. Back to the freezer overcrowded tourist bus so I have the emergency door “seat” step, while most of the people just stand in the aisle. Since we had such great time hiking together we agreed to meet up tomorrow same time same bus 8:30 and then departed bus station to our accommodations, while I was deliberating to go for food to night market but since I was there on first night and realized that it was more like tourist trap and amusement park I just got to PX Mart got some fruit and veg to make fruit salad dinner since the deficient of fresh fruit and veg was making my control Centre take over the direction control and movement of my legs. What a nice dinner of avocado, tomato,  apple, eggs, grapes and tuna and then I was ready to hit the bed since fresh air have that effect on me as well as hiking.

              Morning is here and this time I slept all the way until about few minutes when the alarm went off and here we go again Taroko bus 8:30 this time I stopped not only in 7 eleven for the pouches of energy gel but also in family mart for coffee  so I was ready in line for bus and when Laura arrived the line took quite long tail from where I was standing since I was the first on bus stop again ‘hiking does that to me’ and were hit the bus this time to the very last stop of tourist bus. Well no need to describe every hike we did as we did them all and this is not travel guide but mentioning the tunnel of nine turns and Baiyang trails were really breathtaking with the water rushing through the marble and stone river beds creating the shapes from the rocks that could be anything depending on your imagination. Some of the trails were so great that I would easily just sit there and listen to the water, birds and watch the time pass by together with tourist who came in their hundreds from the tourist buses with some hikers randomly appearing with sticks and backpacks. Swallow grotto was so beautiful with brown huge stones in the river bed of white blue marble walls surrounded the river bed, where the swallows were flying to catch the lunch of insects and flies in the midair. I’m not sure what people thought of Laura getting on the bus with stick what we cut down in forest to help her with balance and what she sniffed regularly as the fresh cut branch had nice smell ‘seriously not other substance were sniffed’ and she was addicted a bit to it. Maybe the people looked at her, jeysus she will beat us up if we don’t give up the seat for her and suddenly the people parted and seat appeared as when Moses strike the red sea with his stich what caused the red sea part as well. Anyhow since I was on the diet of water and energy gel with one nigiri triangle I was a particularly hungry with memory of the special place with fresh dumplings flashing on big screen in central control center located under hair I was not able to concentrate on anything else just FOOD ‘as any hungry man’ and I mentioned that so we agreed to meet up for dinner there. One very fast shower later I was on the way downtown walking or better say running towards the dumpling place. We arrived at the same time and joined line of people waiting for take away but I motioned to the staff that we would like to sit down, which was agreed and we were on the stools ready for our portions of fresh dumplings after some mime with hand sign language combined with English from our part and Chinese from the staff part but eventually we got one steam pot of 10 delicious dumplings with meat and veg in thin dough and four thick dough balls with pork and scallions, which we cleared like we have not eaten for centuries and immediately ordered another round of the same, all together for 100 dollars i.e €3 so full belly as much as eyes and taste buds were screaming for more we left quickly and parted with the same agreement of meeting tomorrow same time same bus. Bla bla boring I know… come and enjoy the hiking in Taroko and you will understand.

              I have no idea what the heck they put in those dumplings but I was asleep faster than I lay down and nearly slept in, had a very pleasant and vivid dream of meeting my friends Aidan and Murtagh on train as they were coming out of their coupe and me and beautiful long haired girl and me were getting to our ‘we were together’ as I was surprised and pleased that I can introduce them together, when smiles and hugs  with approval node from my friends on my new partner, what wake me up. What a pleasant dream and way to waking up… the day started fabulous and continued in the same mood until the I hit the pillow again that evening.

              Last fourth day of hiking was on my own as Laura moved on with her travels and work and I selected nice remote hike to lake Lianhuachi as we have done all the hikes available to complete in one day and this ono looked really great on the map. Got off the bus at last stop, changed to the hiking ‘running’ shorts and started to walk up the road as the start of the hike is 5km from the of Tianxiang Recreation Area what is the last bus stop. Put the gear in I overtook everyone as I wanted to be on hike in nature as soon as possible instead be on tarmac road and 5km is about one hour uphill in sunny, hot weather so thank God for leaking water in tunnel so I can take a improvised shower to cool off as I stuck my head under the leaking water and pointed my bony arse to the cars coming up the tunnel as stripper on the dance floor waiting for some cash ‘in my case maybe a slap or kick instead of money’ but thankfully no car approached until I was back on the path dripping water from my hair all over. I saw the road bend in distance where the trail is starting with one car parked there so I was so happy to be there that I nearly stick another gear up. What a feck surprise as I approached start of the trial seeing the sign ‘DISASTER AREA, DO NOT ENTER’ and then when came close enough realized that my hopes of beautiful hike to mountain lake disappeared together with the hiking path ‘literally’ as the land slide took the path away. Well the hiking alone is not so nice anyhow and since Laura left me alone 😊 I have to get back down the road to bus stop and decided that I will get to the hostel do my laundry, post present to my son, buy new SD card for my camera as I will shoot RAW format and need more space on SD card, then have another portion of famous tasty dumplings and on the way back stop on for a massage since my calves were as if Michelangelo carved them from marble not only good looking but also hard as marble. One laundry / dryer load later I had train ticket in my possession for tomorrow travel to the airport and was on the mission to complete those tasks, post office done in minute and behold to post letter with present cost less than €1 to Europe :-o then the SD card purchase which did not went as easy as post office since the guy did not have the SanDIsk Pro I wanted but he was so great to send me to another store what was owned by his sister who has it which took some time to understand as per language issue but eventually some of his friend came to shop and she spoke perfect English and gave me directions. Shop found, card purchased and e-shop IGUANEYE shared with the shop owner as everyone here wanted to know where I got my great shoes since nearly everyone is turning head when I pass and some stop me asking where I got them ‘at least that what I understood from hand signals  and word WHERE’ . Dumplings were amazing and people asking where I come from and if I live in Hualien as I much my portion of dumplings with chopsticks like a pro 😊 as only foreigner sitting in on a stool between locals, blending in with heads of blond hair sticking out above the average black haired people around like giraffe between meerkats. Foot massage was amazing and thanks to that I was able to walk better more less pain free and as well pleased by the choice of girl who gave me the massage as she was the only one good looking young girl in the SPA with amazing tattoos all over and beautiful smile. One TIGER later ‘beer not a animal, was not that hungry’ I closed the lid on laptop after installing the Adobe Lightroom and working with my first RAW phots, ready for bed as I realized that it was 23:00 since time fly when you are concentrating on something but the control center shut down the AV as my eyelids closed.

              WOW hostel is it time to say good bye and thanks for having me so I took breakfast in nearly empty common area watching the mountains of Taroko park covered in thick dark clouds and said my thanks to God and Angels to keep the great weather while i was hiking. Pack the bags ‘jeysus 25kg of suitcase full of diving gear and clothes and 10 kg of IT stuff’ is amazing how much stuff I gather as I have started travel with 7 kg of clothes in one back pack and small day pack for IT stuff. All in timely and quiet manner done up, luggage left at reception and now lets go get coffee as I saw nice coffee place ‘CABRA COFFEE’ in previous days. Have to say I realized that Ireland is very dangerous place for blind people, as they are in dangers as if they take five steps in any direction they are facing threat of being scolded by hot coffee since the amount of coffee shops in Ireland is on par with amount of ants in hive. Not like here, where to find a great coffee is challenge and therefore I was so happy to spot this CABRA COFFEE previous day that this morning I have exact expectation of my last hours in city of Hualien and they were completely fulfilled starting with great double espresso and tiramisu ‘well tiramisu was not real tiramisu as the biscuits were not soaked in coffee and rum’ but still nice and Frankie was satisfied too. Then as I enjoyed this bliss and my taste buds were screaming ‘yeeeeeah give us more ya prick ! ‘ I spotted next door nice food being served so left he coffee shop, thanking the owner and he gave me a free drip coffee pack as gift and I told him that real tiramisu needs to have biscuits soaked in coffee and rum before stepped out and taking literally five steps to the next eatery to get Japanese style noodles with pork and egg , washed down by passion fruit juice from steel cup with sign ‘I’m not paper cup’ engraved on it. Happy as Larry I can go to hostel pick my luggage and get on the train since the last day went nice as imagined. Thank you Hualien and Taroko National Park and Laura for fantastic time here and for those millions of scooters not runnign me over :-)

Good bye from mountain train on the way to Taipei.