Cairo
Let’s start with the flight to Cairo from Casablanca as I was nearly not on it as the checking girl face frowned when she check my passport and had not found Egyptian visa and said that I have no visa in passport, which I need and therefore she cannot check me in, funny girl she was 😊 I told her that I do not need visa as they are obtained at airport in Cairo for fee of $25 so therefore I do not need to have them at the present time. Nice, pleasant and beautiful girl it was but assistance of duty manager was needed so he came listen to her, then bend down behind the high checking desk and look up something on the computer “probably the visa requirements” as after few minutes or moments he said O.K and left so she start smiling again and gave me my boarding pass. I asked her that if she upgraded me to business class as I have received text from airline previous day saying that they are upgrading me to the business class but I need to be at airport min 3 hours prior departure, . She just said all done “ You are good to go, have safe flight” and therefore I went to fill up the boarding card for passport control and went through control where I was asked by officer how much money I have, so I told him 40 dirhams as that was all I had in pocket.
I’m coming from Ireland where people think, that everything at airport is at rip-off prices but hey Casablanca airport is not far from it “ they must went through sales training in Dublin” .Small water bottle, half a liter for €1.5 and that was the cheapest option and all prices are in € plus no chance you will see any water fountain anywhere so you will buy it, in case you are thirsty “which most of you probably are”. One water and Coca Cola later I was at the electric oasis 😊 You might wondering what that is … are you ? Well in this age the oasis is an pillar of multiple sockets where all the life necessary devices of all travelers are plugged in to charge “hail mobiles, laptops, tablets” as the power tower for charging looked like oasis at Sahara, since the whole airport or at least 80% of travelers were hanging around it like flies around light. In past people were looking for oasis to get the water what was needed for survival, nowadays it is electric socket as the mobiles are now most important thing “ at least it looks like it”. Most of people were flaying to Dakar as when the flight was announced most of the wires and phones disappeared together with their owners. There was one phone in nice pink casing, which was ringing few times and since I was there about two and three quarters of hour prior the departure it looked to me as the phone was left behind. From case design I would say it was lady who left it there, so wish her all the best when she discover that her phone is missing.
Boarding for Cairo started and the plane was barely full, maybe thirty passengers in total so I was lucky to get the nice wide seat row at emergency exit or as happened with Ryanair “desperate exit” if you are stuck at airport too long “google Ryanair emergency exit opened at airport” . Long story short, seat are comfy padded not like usual surf board at low cost carriers and since the plane was not full I moved to the empty bank of three seats after dinner and lay down for a nap as this was the red eye overnight flight. Nap was not bad as the as the plane rocked up and down in turbulence, remind me of cradle when you are baby or when parents are swinging you up and down just to shut you up and make you sleep, which sometimes work and sometimes not. At the end I have got about three to four hours sleep, with little interruption when steward lost his footing and trip with breakfast tray all over me 😊 Thank God that airline food is packed in small containers and plastic pouches. He was absolutely ashamed and apologies to me repeatedly for good few moments.
Cairo airport finally woo hoo…. We arrived in the vee hours at 4:20 Cairo time and I’m not a globe trotter but this was first time when we approached the outline of city with first streets illuminated by yellow ish streets light but keep flying good 5 to 10 minutes before start descending. Usually when I saw the city light we were starting descend to the airport but no in this case. Cairo airport was deserted as any place at this time probably would be, except of the bored customs, border patrol and cleaning staff hanging around like they did something to piss off boss and got a grave shift in return. Visa purchased for $20 and €5 as that was all I had in my wallet. Thank God for trip to New York three years ago as the $20 was sitting in my wallet since then 😊 there is always time and place for everything. In relation to bored people at the airport that is valid only until you pass through the arrival gate to the main hall and exit. There the energy and life change immediately as taxi drivers will descend on any tourist like vultures fighting for the last piece of meat at desert with the ferocity, sound and determination to get their kill. Well since I had not much sleep and was really tired I was not in mood for such annoyance and those who knows me that when I’m tired or hungry it is no good time to approach me as I’m a bad company “ possible as any man is, in such circumstances”. So when I emerged from the arrival doors I felt like shit and all the taxi drives were over me like flies over the cow shit. l told them quite politely to leave me alone at first but with increased amount of heckling I nearly smacked them but they still came back, like the flies or as if they were def and blind. I think that they eventually realized that it is not good idea to approach me and thank God that I was not hungry because that would be the wreath of titans as sleep deprived and hungry God help anyone near me. They left and even one of them told others not to approach me. Walked to the car park on my own and got a white taxi as they were there in plenty and ready to make deal. I was told that for 200 pounds I could get lift downtown so I said 100 and the usual cry “o no, not enough” I said o.k and pointed on the other taxis with one foot already pointed to walk away to talk to someone else when the guy said 150 and no less, which I agreed as the I was tired and for €7.5 is not bad especially when all you want is go to bed and sleep.
Not photo of taxi ride in smog but similar.
It is amazing see the smog hanging at street level so thick that you have problem to make out the next corner on the street or see the few block away but that does not stop taxi hurling down the street like hurricane at 120km/h without lights as they are used only for signaling the suicidal people crossing the road. Thankfully we have not picked any additional passenger on the front bonnet and arrived at hostel, which have not reacted to my knocking. Since I was prepared on this eventuality I have selected three potential hostels previously and start walking to second option hostel through really empty streets covered with haze of smog. The Australian Hostel opened doors on the first knock so I was happy and also made nice deal for 150 Egyptian pounds per night and went to bed to catch on sleep. Woke up around 10:00 feeling a bit better than when I arrived and since the dorm room has beds close to each other I just opened my eyes seeing next bed neighbor leaving the room, so we just said hello and quickly exchanged the usual info of where are you from and what is your plan. He said that he is going to Giza to see pyramids which I said that this is my plan too and he offered to wait for me so we could go together. Quickly went to people making room “bathroom not bedroom, that is baby making room 😊” and took shower, brush teeth and get ready to leave. Guy was from Israel and thankfully he knew a bit of Arabic and was here one day already so it was easy to navigate around and get assistance. Metro is great and don’t listen to what you hear it is o.k and no issues or hassle was experienced during the trip which cost 3 Egyptian pounds “ 1€ = 20 Pounds”, so cheap as it could get and apparently now is more expensive here. We hop on the metro after purchasing water with secure seal wrapped cap as I do not want to risk any issues based on the water in Egypt. We switched lines and get off at Giza station where the trip is starting for pyramid or as they say in Egypt “Haram” and I had nice and detailed description that after leaving station walk down the street to dual carriage way un der the bridge, cross that dual carriage way and take local minibus to Haram i.e pyramids. As we started to walk down the stairs from station, local guy Mohamed approached us if we are o,k and if are we going to pyramids as he is going there with his little brother too. Well I said yes and he actually took us the same way as I had prepared so we went with him and he talked to the Israeli guy all the time in Arabic and we get on the minibus for 7 pounds all three of us. The funny part was when Mohamed asked if we are couple 😊 I laughed my ass off. When the local girls got on the bus they left me the whole seat / bench and went to last row sit on their own, even one lady with kid when the bus was full rather grab the kid and sat him on her lap when the driver shouted at her “all people shout here” and gesticulated to her to move close to me so he can get more people in. Well one guy get on and sat between me her so she was saved from infidel. After ish half an hour we were getting off at the roundabout where you can see the pyramid peeking through the other buildings and vegetation. Since Mohamed insisted to take us Egyptian way we boarded the another minibus and drove for a moment, then got off and walked through the local street
to the some local tourist office, where we were offered horse ride around the pyramids. This is not what I want, neither the Israel guy so we walked off the tourist office and headed to gate, with eye on the food as I have not eating since morning and I was becoming silent and slightly agitated. The first food place we stumbled upon was KFC …. I know, I know but when you are really hungry anything is good. Few young Americans and us were the only customers and it was absolute strange feeling eating KFC and watching great pyramid through window, while Toto Cutugno palyed “L’italiano” song, it was so surreal experience as possibly was Salvatore Dali was in his days.
After the polishing plate clean, we bought tickets to area for 160 pounds each and start walking through the site and locals who trying to sell you ride on horse / camel constantly and also constantly lowering price, closer to pyramids you’ve got, with starting on 150 and eventually stopped at 50 when you are at pyramid. Have to say that saw them on TV or read about them in the books it is not the same when I stood at the site and look at the size and craftsmanship of stone masonry from 4000 years ago… Sphinx is amazing when you stand beside it and see all the blocks of stone what is made of nicely shaped to fit each other and also look beautiful. When you walk from the temple on the road to the pyramid you are slowly realizing that this is huge structure made from huge stone blocks only by hand in middle of sand. As Amir mentioned, imagine that when they were build there was nothing at all around only them standing out from sand… pretty impressive as well as was the Osaka temple rising above everything around it, miles on. The size of the stones and the finish of the Granit top layer as the Granit was the top layer covering the rough limestones stones underneath is something else. The volume is really impressive and when you see the part what is left with Granit stone cover at Khafre pyramid is giving the pyramid different view, just imagine the whole structure finish this way.
Great pyramid access inside is only to great passage and main chamber and have to say the sight is impressive with all the slabs of Granit fit so tight that you could not slide a needle between them with the fact that whole passage is slighted at 45 degrees angle while from outside all stones are set horizontally. The burial chamber is also the same Granit stone and exactly the same precision and immaculate finish which considering the fact, that it was done thousand years ago only by hand and simple tools is really impressive. Khafre pyramid inside is finished only with lime stone and much rougher finish. Cemeteries around the pyramids look so small but when you peek inside the excavated shafts what are mostly covered by steel grills you realize that what you actually see is top floor / roof maybe as the shafts are 6 to 8 meters ish deep. Overall the sight was really worthwhile except the cost for access to the inside of great pyramid, what you need to pay 360 pounds for. Khafre is only for 100 pounds and in my opinion both are worth 100 pound only I would say. In case you are sensitive to energies or are spiritually open do go inside the great pyramid and feel it, it is worthwhile. In relation to amount of space you can see inside Great pyramid ,TV documentary will show you more of it than what you can see yourself so keep that TV on 😊 When we were leaving site there is another cemetery just below but this one is “Car cemetery” would be interested what would people say 4000 years from now when excavate the car cemetery.
On the way back we used local midi bus and the guy was non stop shouting Giza Metro since it started at pyramids roundabout all the way to Giza i.e. few meters before Giza he stopped, sat down and counted money. We got off and as we walked down to Giza station we stopped for a street food. Beautiful roasted liver with some green and chili in small bread pouch and second with Alexandrian sausages with pickled vegetables on side, yummy for 10 punds which is 50 cents.
Metro ride was silent as after food I suddenly feel sleepy and tired but still have to walk back from the metro station to hostel and then we sat down and start looking / booking next trip to Luxor as I would like to travel by day time train which seems impossible to buy for foreigner. All that they want to sell you is sleeping train for $100 as tourist is main source of income here. Anyway the food is so cheap and mostly everyone who I met say welcome in Egypt and enjoy ! So polite and helpful, very nice and refreshing. Also suddenly I feel like celebrity as everyone wants to take picture with me so probably being blond and tall is interesting. At the pyramids group of ten girls surrounded me with request to take selfie and left laughing, saying that they love me 😊 if they were twenty years old I would say something but with teenagers…. Same thing in the Museum, street where teenagers asking for photo. Saw one blond girls posing too so maybe as tall dark handsome man in Europe is for you girls, blond tall handsome is in Egypt, finally my beauty is recognized 😊
Some of hte random photos of Cairo to show what I’m talking about in case you have not been here.
Museum is huge and lots to see but minimum of explanation at the museum artefacts itself as all is made that you hire a guide for 300 pounds go with you. I saw a lot, took a few photos but then realized that I could take photo of everything and stopped to take photos and rather marvel at the artefacts and details of some of the necklaces from glass and gold are absolutely amazing. The sarcophagus and its detailed job of goldsmith is something to see and admire and realized that whoever was doing them was really proud of doing so.
Walkaway i.e promenade at side of the Nile is nice and leads to the local market under the bridge / road, where the local people shop and eat. so I sat down at corner restaurant selling Koshari with view on market and streets. It is easy to find as all you have to do is follow noise and local people and you could be sure that the food is just stone throw away and it is really local place with steel plates and great taste … yummy and only for 10 pounds. Again locals had fun of one tourist lost in this area eating their local food so I got used to being looked at and in some cases taken photo of. Amazing stuff can be found at the side streets what are bursting with markets such as carrying about 2 meters long board with I think bread so some sort of food on the head of passenger on moped, going fast that I did not even have time to took out camera. Imagine traffic of cars and people mingling all around and you realize that this is skill you not get just like that.
So evening walk at around Nile is nice and refreshing and locals walk around taking selfies, talking and just standing / sitting and enjoying the moment. Also there is a film festival here now which I did found out when crossed the bridge to Opera house what was all covered in red fabric, lots of lights and even more policeman’s. Tahir square is nice but not really square, more like the big roundabout and lots of roads to and from it in every direction including the car parks and all under watchful eyes of police.
I supposed to stay in Cairo for three nights but on second night I was told that we have to relocate to different hostel as this one is closing down immediately. This was a bit of shock considering that I was already in bed and the guy came to room at 22:00 to tell this this news. Start packing to get ready to move but as I entered reception the guys said that police gave them one more night so we do not need to move now but tomorrow before 11:00. We all went to bed happy that we could sleep and no need to walk around the Cairo in the night. Guy came back to my room apologies for the hassle and we talked a bit, so I learned that Police is closing down hostel sue the fact that one visitor tried to make suicide. I felt sorry for the guys as they look were stressed and tired as they had not slept a lot since the incident plus they were not sure what happen next. Next morning was the move since early hours where people got their breakfast and left to their respected hotels but when I came to reception they were surprised as they thought that I’m part of the group what left but I was not so they said that they did not organized accommodation for me and gave me money back. Actually this suited me since I was planning to leave Cairo earlier as it was nice but I spent enough time there, so got a bus ticket for Go-Bus on another red eye overnight journey to Luxor.
Overall Cairo was nice and different than anything I saw previously and I did liked the rush, traffic and all but I’m not the city tourist and I came here mainly for the temples and to see the country around Nile. I would say that two days max three for me in Cairo is sufficient, so I sat at hotel where I left my luggage and talked with receptionist for hours until 22:00 when I left for bus. Just before I left I went for some food and the receptionist recommended Egyptian grill restaurant around the corner but unfortunately it was closed so I got Koshari again. Go-Bus station is under another bridge and thankfully it was not full again so I can stretch across the four seats and doze off for most of the trip through dessert except one quick stop after one hour journey at petrol station in middle of nowhere.
Good bye Cairo.
