It is 27th of December and my time in Dahab is at the end as I will leave tomorrow for Nuweiba from where I will cross to Jordan.

Lots of diving had happened since the last article from 19th of December and to describe them all now it would take whole day and possibly many pages of word document, which I’m lazy to type but as I remember I try to put my memories down here.

  Well 20th and 21st were a normal diving days with Taiwanese and Korean friends at various diving sites across Dahab but nothing special or extraordinary had happened as I could not remember it today “27th Dec”. We had the “usual” dining at Sea Bride restaurant on excellent sea food / calamari and having great time diving and learning different skills. On Friday all the Koreans were talking about the boat trip and since I cancelled trip to ship wreck diving at Res Mohammed I took this one instead since it was only for € 50 including breakfast, lunch and two dives at Gabr el Bint. We were assembled at 7am in the morning “ after coffee of course” at Orca all fourteen of us and after the formalities and preparing the necessary paper work, copy of passports, permits etc.. we were off to the transport point, what is big place what leads to the beach and where all the trips are starting by loading the pickups with gear. This time three pickups for all of us and Ashraf “big boss”  himself drove us to the port to make sure all went well and we were safely on boat. First time that the boss himself went to supervise this action and as he said  he want to makes sure that all will go well. After security checkpoint at the port entrance we were on the pontoon waiting to finish loading of equipment. Once on the board, we made a short briefing on what is ahead of us as well as the general rules of how to behave on boat by Salah until Ashraf said that it is time to get breakfast “we must looked like locust during the famine” so they let us descend on the breakfast buffet and we did clear it in near record time of no longer that 5 minutes. Breakfast was nice and since I learned hard way that full belly is not good for diving I took it easy this time with amount of food eaten.  

  We were slowly sailing to our dive site copying the outlines of the coast on our right hand side and listening to K-pop as most of the team were Korean and they have with them this portable microphone with speaker so live karaoke of K-pop took place. After a while another detailed briefing took place to explain the dive site, approach to dive site and procedures for this dive. We arrived to first dive stop what was so close to the shore “ possibly 5 meters” that it was surprise to see the drop not more that two meters from the shore it went straight down to about ten meters. We were divided to two teams one of six people with Abdul and another of eight people with Salah and entered water on the way to look at those big corals like trees. Thankfully there was no current so were we able to swim back close to reef instead to be picked by boat further away without seeing the reef. Unfortunately some of our friends were out of air quite early in dive, so I had to ascend and exit water with air in a tank and I was not alone. There were three of us who had lots of air and we were frustrated with this early ascend and when Abdul explained that we had to do so because of other people were low on air, we understood as safety is first in diving and diving is team work.

  All on board captain, ready to move further to new location where we anchored down by already prepared anchor ropes and also another boat anchored on our side too since there was no more anchors. Second dive was equally nice and if I had not forgot to type the notes immediately I could go into more details of what we saw but I remember that it was nice and I remember to see tuna chasing milk fish. Tuna is so fast swimmer it is amazing to see it in the water, just blink and they are gone, it was pack of four as far as I saw. Again after while we were signaled by Abdul to ascend and me and my dive buddy were frustrated, since we both still had 90 bars in tank but I think that Abdul realized that and signaled that everyone with  90 bars can stay and rest of them has to surface. Abdul and two of us stayed underwater and explored area around the entry point under the boats. Eventually we all surfaced and I went for swim in swimming trunks / shorts as the water was 25 degrees Celsia and I love the swim in the sea. All the Koreans look at me like I’m mad and asked if I’m not cold, since they were all in the water but in wet suits. Well when you come from Ireland to Egypt the Red Sea is warm as cup of tea 😊 After some time in the water and then out on sun drying out , we were served lunch. We must be famished as everyone descend on the lunch like wolfs on the poor lost sheep in the woods and cleared plates within minutes except of the carrot salad , what I ate myself since no one seems to like it. Rice, Spaghetti, chicken, some sausages with vegetables, various salads.  Everyone felt better afterwards as the water makes you really hungry. Since everyone went on top deck to listen to more K-pop I went to sit at back part of the boat from where we went to water “launch pad” and meditate to sound of waves, which cleared my mind and with  sunshine on my face I felt so nice and connected to the grid that I had to stay there for a while. After some time I regained consciousness and took some photos of me and water and went to the front of the boat to imitate Titanic scene on the tip of the boat watching waves, since everyone on the boat was asleep as if some sleeping illness took over the boat 😊.  I do not want to boast but all of the other people were about twenty five years old max thirty and I was surprised as all of them were complaining that they are tired and need to sleep. Well not completely everyone as one Korean guy stayed with me at front and then there was the crew. As we were slowly approaching Dahab cutting through the waves like knife through butter captain quickly shouted out “turtle” and on our left hand side was turtle easily floating on like air mattress.  All happy back on land but me as I preferred the boat where I felt like home.

  Most of people took a day off from diving on Sunday 23rd as they were tired and needed break or maybe the party last night was too busy so they need to sober up 😊  We dived with Adawy and one Korean guy who was with his own equipment and done some hundred dives. Also we took some lunch at dive site, where we discussing with Adawy the prospect of purchasing my own equipment, what he said is good idea since I want to become Dive Master and eventually make living from it as well as progress with education further. Upon returning to center me and Adawy went on tour through diving shops to see what is available on the market and for what price. Walked through the four shops I’ve got idea what is the price of equipment and thankfully of Adawy presence, the price was normal not touristic as he negotiated with owners. Took notes of all equipment in each shop with prices to go over it later at hotel.  I had offered Adawy that I will take him for dinner as I was grateful for his assistance but he said that if I’m hungry I can join him in his house for dinner. What a nice gesture ! I was shocked and did not know if accept or not but my belly did instead of me 😊 I said that I will not arrive with empty hands so we stopped at local bakery, where I bought the sweets. Walked all the way through real local Dahab to his house was so nice as I saw the real life and not the tourist life. Arrived to house his sons welcomed us and I could see that I was attraction and they were interested in my and at the same time shy of me. Well introduction done with Hassin, Abdul,….. ahhh I can’t remember the names of the other two ☹ we sat down and waited for dinner, what was in process of cooking and I was so pleased and surprised, since Adawy said, that I’m lucky as we got the beautiful rice with vegetables wrapped in cabbage leaf with chicken, bread and mint like sauce what was so delicious as well as very difficult and time consuming to made and that this is not cooked usually, only on special occasion.  While we were waiting for diner I talked to Hassin who was the only brave one to talk to me in English not mentioning little ball of energy Abdul who run around the house like flash and I was thinking that it is only matter of time when he start run on the walls and ceiling like spider man 😊  Hassin showed me his collection of coins from various countries so I add some of mine to his  from Lebanon, UK and then talked about diving and finished to watch a Finding Nemo on my phone 😊 This was the probably the best for them as when they started to watch all went quiet and we talk with Adawy in peace. Dinner was served and we sat down and ate together, which I have to say was the best Christmas present or Christmas dinner I could wish for. Abdul become more bold and repeated few English words he overheard from our conversation as well as tried to play with me. Thank you Adawy ! After dinner, Hassin went to room to learn for his upcoming test from German as he just passed the English one an me and Adawy were talking while the boys disappeared to rooms except the Abdul who was all around us at all the time. Well since I realized that Adawy needs to spent time with family before bed time I thanked for his generosity and left his house to get to my hotel. It was experience I probably will remember for rest of my life. Got to the hotel and made transfer of money to my Revolut account for purchase of the equipment and went to sleep as it was long day.

  Christmas day is here 24th December and I was up and ready for another dive with divers who had  Santa hats and were floating in the sea as if they first delivered presents to all underwater creatures and afterwards to us humans 😊 Funny sight I have to say and everyone is wishing you a happy Christmas as I walk in my wetsuit to the diving site. In between dives we took some rest at center together with tea “of course” and when the beep announced that money came to Revolut account I was so happy  that I could go shopping for Christmas presents. Waited for Adawy until 4pm and then went to the shops what I selected based on the cost of the equipment, first was BCD, mask and snorkel in the corner shop with testing the BCD since they did not have XL size but realized that L is fit me good and comfortably plus the trying it on dry land is different than in the water. Got BCD then start choosing shoes as the one I wanted were not available in my size so need to get different one as comfort is most important. Mask was easy as there were plenty of them, I tested one which did not stuck on my face good when breathed in so tried another one,  what was on sale and this one stuck properly so all  done and even got free snorkel as Adawy told the shop owner to throw it in for free. Next stop wet suit, first, second stage, bag, fins at second i.e third one from previous selection since the second one was too expensive. Wet suit tried, bag too, only fins were left as I was not sure if get them here or not. The owner drove me to the ATM as the card pay is not possible and also drove me to hotel with the equipment. When in the hotel room, all out of the bag and on the bed and I was a bit overwhelmed or better said nervous of all the money spent on it… well I have not slept till 2 – 3am as I was thinking of all the money spent… over all it came to €1150 including the dive computer which is not that bad I think.  Anyway it is investment as this is what I need to make diving my job. Woke up in anticipation to try the new equipment and when arrived in center all instructors were stopping by and congratulating on the purchase after checking the equipment. It was a new game altogether with new equipment as the buoyancy was different in new wetsuit and with new B.C.D. so need to adjust the weight with one more kg to keep me leveled and in neutral buoyancy. Since I need to complete the Rescue diver course we went to Mashraba dive what is in front of the center with Adawy to train in rescue from the surface as first stage and then second dive was together with one Korean guy “big fella so I had it though” who played victim so I have to rescue him. Interesting course as you learn how to deal with stressful situation and I do not want to sound bad but it is easy to rescue non responsive diver as all you do is getting the body up on the surface. Also we did search for missing diver and surface rescue of panic diver, unresponsive diver, tired diver etc… not going to get into details as you can get them when complete the course yourself 😊 challenging but rewarding. Well that was all and I had completed my rescue diver certification, received temporary card and went home as this training was a bit tiring. Watched a movie on the hotel as I was cooking the rice for dinner since I had to save a bit money, especially after purchasing all scuba diving equipment…. And also had taste for simple rice with corn and chickpeas after all the meat and fish dinners. Tomorrow is last diving day since I  need to dry all equipment properly and this take some time.

Since it was last day and I saw nearly every diving site available in Dahab bar two I told Ashraf and Adawy that I would like to see one of the sites I had not dive in as it is my last day diving here. We went to Eel Garden and this was completely amazing and different comparing to  all previous dives. First of all the Eel garden is slope of whiteish  sand going down to the bottom in aprox 45 degrees angle and further from us were eels sticking out like some grass from the sand. It looked like tall grass moving in the wind but if we went closer they all disappear in sand like those automatic bollards at the street used to stop traffic but let the deliveries pass. Amazing site not to mention that behind this sand garden was reef full of corals and fish. It was like if I was in in lush forest on one side and small meadow on the other. Also the dive itself was a bit challenging as there was a mild current and you really need to adapt and know what to do in it . The current is moving mass of water playing with you like with the match and I felt that this is just start of learning to dive as every dive is different and with current it become more challenging to be in control . We were alone in the water, what was even more interesting as no one around us, I could feel the freedom and space of the big blue all around us, I have not been in space but I think that this is close to it. Later I was told that apparently the current in Eel garden is restricting diving to only few divers since it could a bit dangerous and learners are not permitted there. We had great instructor and therefore it was easier as he lead the way and also you are more comfortable when you know that someone with great experience is there with you. On the way out we met three divers getting ready to go in but only two men went in as the lady was not feeling confident apparently in the strong current. This was translated to us later as lot of conversation and phone numbers  exchanges went around between our driver and I think the instructor of this couple. She looked distressed I would say, when I look at her sitting at the curb holding her head in palms and occasionally lift the head and look at us as the conversation between our driver and their guide went on as well as the man / partner went to her but from the expression as I cannot heard them the message was clear “ leave me alone “ and so he went into water and we went back to center. Great last day of diving I had to say and  again I was lucky as Ukrainian man came for dive so my last day diving was completed in Canyon and Blue Hole both amazing sites and together with Eel Garden I could not finished my diving with better dives. Starting point to blue hole are “Bells” what is narrow cavity leading straight down to 30 meters form the surface and the name is from the sound of clanking of air tanks against walls when you descending down to the walls like as if bell was ringing. The Blue hole itself is actually free diving spot and we went just at side of the reef at wedge of hole before surfacing. Canyon is another great side where we are at 30 meters kneeling on the bottom and playing game of numbers to test the gas narcosis effect as the instructor using his fingers in random order showing the numbers and we need to answer the correct calculation i.e if he showed seven finger s we  need to show three. The difficulty is that the fingers showing the numbers are randomly changing so seven could be shown as five fingers on left palm and two on right palm and same again as three on right and four on left… in case you are in gas narcosis it will be harder concentrate as if you are tipsy or slightly drunk . Shame that we could not go through canyon as the corals narrowed the passage so all dives through were cancelled. Well both dives completed we had lunch of Berber chicken and went back to center discussing night dive as I would like to do it but to do so, there need to be more people in the group and Gregory “Ukraine man” was into it until wife explained to him that this is not good idea from financial point of view “translated nicely” and the night dive was off. Also when we came back to center I was bit cold with the wind coming from the sea and was looking forward to hot shower rather than another dive, so night dive has to wait for some other time.

  Today is second last day and this is rest day without diving, just going to properly wash the equipment and let it dry before marking and packing so all day just catching some sun tan and typing, talking and checking equipment as it is hanging to dry outside on the sun. Well also admiring the beautiful French girl who came for fun five with her friend … I’m sucker for tall girls with long blond hair…. Ahhh ….and French language ahhh even better… However I need to concentrate on review of ORCA Dive Dahab on Tripadvisor as Ashraf shouted to me, seeing that I was temporarily  distracted 😊 Thank God that she left for dive and I could put my head down to complete review and then got a cup of tea, mark my equipment, pack equipment into bag and went to hotel. All in and I was left with small empty Deuter day pack. Since Adawy was asking after purchasing new bag what would I do with back pack, as he was thinking to get it from me for children I decided to leave it to him. Well I had used this Deuter day pack for a long time and I hope that it will be used again long time here in Dahab. I kept my new Osprey as it is lighter and more storable than the Deuter plus in case I need to reduce the weight of big scuba bag I could use the Osprey to take some items as some Airlines permitting two pieces of luggage, each weighting 23kg. Also I had not intention to get more stuff but opposite to reduce so this way I can reduce it even more since I still carry hiking shoes for my India / Nepal hiking next year.  Dinner was in Sea Bride restaurant as it was good food for reasonable price previously but this time it was absolute rip off and I was so pissed off when they asked for five hundred fifty pounds that I nearly lost it, when  they tried convince me that two of us ate the same amount food as five of us previously. Gave them four hundred and walked away when the guy said fifty more. That was the first bad experience in Dahab and also this took all the good experiences away so I was glad to leave. Adawy offered me to come to his house for cup of tea later that evening but I felt that this was just polite invite and not really sincere and therefore I rather stayed in hotel watching movie “Juliet Naked” which is not bad movie but also not great as I was expecting.

  Over all, Dahab was nice small village with a charm of somehow flower power vilalge,  also if you spent a little bit of time exploring the streets and went beyond the usual tourist strip you could have not only cheaper food but also better experience if local life is thing that attracts you. I admit that even some sea side restaurants and cafes were nice and I preferred part of the beach from the local police station to the right, to be honest the sun was there only in the morning to early lunch but less people, cheaper prices were things I looked for so more tranquil place than main strip. It is a laid back place where you can rest, eat and just enjoying the sunny weather and dive of course as the prices are reasonable, diving centers on nearly every fifty meters and water has twenty four degrees Celsia so for December break it is a great place to be.  Of course further from the sea side, cheaper prices for food and maybe it is not fancy looking restaurant with colored cushions and painted fronts like from flower power time of LSD but the experience is nice as well as you can stay away from bazars selling every possible trinkets. Saying that, all the bazars sales man are not too pushy and more less waiting for you to stop, until you rest your eyes on something before they will approach you. It could be said that they were somehow accepting the fact that tourist will not buy more if they will hassle them into it, at least that was my experience and what I saw.

I’m not ,much of beach lazy boy but if this is your thing you could be happy here, lounging at the roof tops of cafes and restaurants, sipping fruit juices, watching the life pass by with good book or music or just simply dozing off. In case you are bit more active diving, windsurfing, kite surfing and even hiking in the mountains are available for you not forgetting the quad biking, which did not appeal to me seeing the people on quads speeding through sea of plastic rubbish in dessert. I planned to hike mount Sinai but since I have only summer gear and there is minus five degrees Celsia I lefty this activity for some other time as my main goal was diving, what I had accomplished.

Good bye Dahab.