Marrakesh and Sahara Trip
Landed at Marrakesh airport at midnight and have to say airport is nice and probably newly build. Security completed and here we are in Morocco. Since it is after midnight need to get a taxi to hostel which is about two hundred dirhams so not bad deal I would say. Dropped off at Jamaal el Fna square or before the square as the square is not accessible to cars during the night. It is a nice experience to walk through the square itself at night with all the hustle bustle of busiest place at Marrakech. Kaktus hostel where I stayed is simple and exactly what you pay for. Dropped to bed like a stone around 1am and was happy to see bed. Well it is morning and I’m up and about after the usual process of human fabrication in the bathroom and breakfast at terrace of the hostel. Went for walk at market, cyber park, tanneries, streets and have coffee and brunch at local corner coffee place, just watching the life passing by in natural rhythm to soak the energy and adapt to the pace of living here. It is amazing to watch all the traffic of humans, animals, cars and mopeds to pass each other in organize chaos of life. Horns beep cars slow down, mopeds pass at distance of hair from the cars and in between the occasional donkey drawn carriage is going on its own pace. Soaking the sunshine and energy is great start of travelling in foreign place and I love it for setting the pace. After an hour and half soaking I left the place and walked towards the another garden this time cyber garden which is strange name or garden but at the end it is a garden with cyber kiosk in the middle of it. It was nice to see the change in life from daytime to night time as in the night are all the food kiosks open up and start shouting and directing people to their “best and cheapest” food. Well did some walking but it is bed time as tomorrow I’m leaving for three days trip to Sahara and other spaces. In truly Moroccan style the price is nowhere to seen when you try organize travels but as I learned it is rip off if you buy in hostel, which I never did but this time I made exemption which will not be rule as I will go into details later. However the trip means early start at 6:30 to have breakfast and read for pick up at 7. Well shower is no go as the girls were in and since they are second most beautiful thing after the nature I left them to complete their rituals of beauty. Went for breakfast to get the usual pancake / crepe with piece of bread, yogurt, orange juice. Backpack ready and go at 6:55 but the bus is nowhere so I would try to get shower but was told no no as the bus is here…. Well here and now in Morocco is like ish in Ireland where time relativity is tested in real life. So eventually around 7:35 bus came and we boarded the bus and here we go towards Sahara but first some reshuffle as some people are going only for two days trip and some for three days. Well eventually after half an hour we have departed the Marrakesh. The group is made of seventeen people, French, German, Argentinian, Italian, Moroccan, Dutch, Chinese and of course Americans as no trip can be done without them. We have set off our little journey in as more les individuals but returned to Marrakesh in three days as solid family.
Drive Through Atlas Mountain was one continuous drive with two short photo stops and two coffee breaks for refreshment. We drove and drove and as we later realized it is not really sightseeing tour but more less just car journey through Morocco to turn around as much as possible tourist in as shortest time as possible. Well I think that family formation and understanding of this came to us at first stop for lunch at Ait Ben Haddou :Photos will be added later as per poor Wi-Fi
where we were hoarded to this rip-off expensive empty restaurant where menu was for 120 dirhams which is only €12 but when you realize the cost of food in Morocco you realize that you can get decent lunch in Marrakesh for 10 or 20 dirhams you realize how this tourist business is one big rip off scheme. Well I sat down, look at menu have a little talk with people and then left for search of better value for food, which I found down front of Ait Ben Haddou with tajin for 40 dirhams and the sun on my face and view. Rejoined the group we were agreed that this is rip off enterprise as I told them what I had paid for lunch and from that day on we were more than just the strangers on the bus, we become the group of friends. The Ait Ben Haddou is beautiful place in middle of nowhere on the ancient trading cross road through Sahara and it was nice to see all the beautiful small streets and mud houses packed together. Also the view from the top showed the green oasis below as the caste is on the river side and the river is source of life in all civilizations, which here is even more present. I’ve got lost a bit around because of visit to one house i.e. local Berber live museum so I was lost in time. Upon exiting the house I saw girls from the bus walking down the street and it was so beautiful that I want to take the photo of them immediately but since I did not know their names yet I just shout girls girls which in Morocco does any seller so I have to quickly shout Dutch girls upon which, one of them turn and we laugh as they expect another seller to chase them with some trinket to sell. I have explain them that I saw this beautiful moment when they walked down the street and they were happy to walk it once more so here you go, you can see what I mean :
Obviously the moment cannot be recreated fully but this is as close as IO could get it.
SO after this impromptu photoshoot we got on the bus as last people and continue with our journey towards Sahara. After some time we have come to the movies studios what is another part of the tour but not really something to stop for, however after the democratically vote initiated by our American friends we stopped for some sunshine at the Oscar Hotel beside the pool as bunch of young actors what we were taken for by some tourist who asked if he could take our photos and then asking if we are the actors we said, yes we are 😊 you have to take funny side sometimes. Poor fella will be showing his picture of young actors to his friends in states not knowing that we were just bunch of tourist enjoying the sun wine and tea at pool side after long ride on the mini bus. Got back on the road and went to find our stop for a night but not as group but in three different places. Chinese got a nice fancy hotel when rest of us got Hiking Nomads Hostel up in some village.
Unfortunately we lost four compadres who were dropped off to the another hostel. The Hiking Nomad was very very nice and I would give it 10 stars out of ten based on hostels in Morocco I have been in. I could not remember the name of host but he was so good, charming, funny and really caring as we entered and sat down in the middle of the house around table for Berber whiskey “tea for those who don’t know” and when he went to get food we grabbed drums and start playing some tunes and sing or chant as one of the American girls J has very nice voice and chant so beautifully that we all join her. Drums i.e. bongos were passed from one to another for some practice and we agreed that D was the best not native Berber player. Fire was on in little stove and girls took turns near to it to warm up before the diner. Diner was nice two big Tajins and plates of vegetables with rice and were family now having dinner and talk with each other. After the belly were full we went on the roof terrace for smoke and riddle time as the local host gave us a lot of riddles which we were not able to solve to our disappointment but still nice time with another group who went to trip to Nomads in the mountains to stay with them for few days and nights, which was apparently great experience and I would love to do it. Well by midnight we went to bed as all of us needed a rest after bone shaking drive to here. I must snore as I was woke up by plastic bottle bang on my head or near it on the bed. Well I had good sleep and could not be responsible that I need to replenish the wood we burned in the stove 😊 Well woke up and got in the bathroom or synchronized showering, which is simple when one person take shower i.e. turn on water the other has no water at all. So it was funny to talk to S in next cubicle are you wet ..? and then she replied yes, your turn now … so then I got wet turn off the water, shout to S it is your turn now and soap myself until she shout back, I’m done your turn now I could turn on the water and rinse. What a laugh we have got from it. Well the morning hygiene done we packed backpacks and sat down for breakfast, which must came from weightwatchers club as it was just one small pancake, slice of bread with jam and tea… The lucky ones kept the fruit from last night as supplement. Well all done and bus is loading and the poor Italian – Moroccan couple of I and D told us that they had worse hostel and that they had one tajin for 6 people and that it was apparently horrendous experience. Well one more step to cement our family in the bus to be as one. Drove to some town I could now remember now but it means Shoulder in Berber language because of rock formation above it. WE picked up our tour guide who was trying to be more funny than knowledgeable and tool us above the town so we can take pictures from above of this oasis :
Then went to Durra Valley if I remember correctly which was nice valley well worth hike / walk through but as I mentioned previously this was not about exploration but about herding tourist like sheep from stop to stop. We got out took some photos of the gorge
And back onto bus what ladies appreciated as it was a really cold and drizzle came too so not much exploring have been done as for this you need your own car with guide or without and time. Well our guide told us that the climbers are falling down here and that without permit you cannot climb, that the hotel on photo is closed as four ton rock fall down last summer on the restaurant just 10 min later as group of 40 tourist left and that the valley is holiday spot for locals in the summer when the temperature soars to 50 degrees of Celsia in the town and in the valley is 25 degrees Celsia. Then we wen back to town to explore shopping district of course and Jewish part of town, then finish up at Berber house for tea, some history lessons about Berber life and carpet weaving, which obviously lead to shopping not so much voluntary as you are put in the room with one door as exit which s occupied by host who is presenting you carpet upon carpet by layering them on the floor with small talk of what is made from, what are the designs and how easily they are able to pack it up for Ryanair / Easy jet flights as cabin luggage. Have to admit I love two of them very much but since I’m just starting the journey I could not take anything but thankfully some of us bought some carpets and we were relieved from the room.
Then we aimed for Sahara finally as the distances in Morocco are not the same as in Europe, which could be also because of fact that you are driving through vast empty space, desert like and there is not much to see except occasional road flooded by river :
This was real surprise from most of us to see so much water in desert but I would say since we are passed beside mountains I would assume that the water flowing from them can cause a floods as the river beds were quite wide. Well we were getting tired and hungry the conversation lowly ceased in the bus and everyone thoughts were more on the food and next stop. Well the next stop was the breaking / making point of this family of our as we stopped middle of fu…g nowhere, where the restaurant served only Tajin for 80 dirhams without bread, salad and when S tried to ordered something else they were rude so rude telling her NO that it was absolutely obvious that this is tourist trap and when we approached our driver he said that he had to stop here to avoid the flooding rivers . I was so angry as it was S and I about the food the service , price and most of all the attitude of staff that I think that this provoked I partner D to talk them in Arabic as she is Moroccan to tell them f….o.. as suddenly bread arrived after we finished the tajin and she realized that we are all pissed off to the max and as Moroccan her hearth sunk and she felt ashamed. So we made a little scene but from now on we were as one. Driver was hiding until the girls went to look for him. We have to stop somewhere as S had nothing to eat at all so next town we went for food shopping, fruit, nuts and we were off as the sunset was the goal for today.
The bus speeded off towards Sahara and we were now ventilating our frustration from the food fiasco and slowly but surely formed pack against driver. However after arriving at Sahara we were all happy to be there and to get on the dromedary to start our ride to sunset.
After all the initial mishaps this was truly Amazing experience as the ride and most important the sunset was so amazing that this itself was worth the trip and our guide Hmid or Ahmed as we called him was like brother to the guy from hostel, friendly, nice and warmhearted person. We rode for a while then stopped to see sunset and then continued to the camp in the dark. Upon arriving to the camp we again realized that we were just screwed as the electricity was non existing, space between tents was so small and no fire was there at all. We have found some bongos and from there onwards the night got different style as we sat incircle, play bongos, sang and have great time as family no matter what happen around. As I spoke to I and D about it D told me that she rang her contact and complain to him as this was not what was sold to her and he was pissed off and I think that she wished to show Morocco to her partner I as beautiful country and this was not going as planned. Well we said that it is what it is and in minute the guy showed with some candles for dinning tent and our table outside, to create some atmosphere and when D asked him where is the fire, electricity etc the guy explained that there was problem with electricity and no one is here to repair it. Well dinner was served nicely and we were all hungry so we are all getting the veg and rice with bread as if this was our last meal. AS we were nearly cleaned the plates the Tajin was brought in and later we all agreed that we were not expecting anything else and stuff ourselves with bread 😊 Tajin was nice and we ate all and asked about the fire as we want to have real fire to keep us warm as it was only 19:00 and not much to do. Well we all went outside as Ahmed / Hmid started fire, we brought bongos and started playing again and the Hmid and his friends joined and show us how it should be played. They warmed the bongos against the fire first to stretch the skin properly and the sound was far much better.
D started jamming with them and they sang some Berber songs which we repeated mostly as sounds since we do not speak berber 😊 dance started later and I went as truly Italian all the way to t-shirt as he was so warm. Then they made some dance with girls which was funny to watch but so nice that we felt welcome and I think that they were so happy to see that we are such a great bunch who can entertain themselves so they were happy to join us. Then J started her lovely chant and we were did the two chants J taught us as she was leading. Then one of the French girls started Hallelujah from Leonard Cohen and this was so much surprise for all of us as she was most of the time quiet but she has a such lovely voice when she sang and the song was perfectly timed. Played a bit more on the bongos and then just talked around the fire having bit of conversations between each other until the Hmid friends came back that they need bongos to play music at another camp. Well we were already in meditative mood so we did not mind at all as talk started and Hmid / Ahmed actually stayed with us the whole night , even when the guys came for him he said to them that he is staying with us and he got us some more wood for fire. Later on J started roasting the date which was so funny as nine of us shared one roasted date at the time until I ate whole and did not pass it forward to his girlfriend. Well D had one more date so J roasted it and we shared the last one again with I not present his girlfriend D got first bite / lick as when you have one date for nine people it is more less lick that you get. Whet J roasted all her dates 😊 we did one apricot and then the group reduced as some took off to tent for a night and seven of us stayed until the moon disappeared to watch stars at the sky laying on blanket brought from tents as the Berber guys went to bed themselves they laugh at us that we want to sleep outside. However when my eyelids became heavy I decided to pack it for a night, took my blanket and went to tent, where I fell asleep immediately after under blanket disrobing for sleep to my PJ al la naturel.
Somewhere around 5 in the morning Hmid start calling “Good Morning” and we were all up and in the most beautiful dark went to the dromedaries for our ride to sunrise. Amazing how bring was the Venus and how quiet it is when you are in the desert early in the morning. Truly amazing experience. Sunrise was so beautiful but cold that everyone was happy to get off the dromedaries for a bit of walk up the sand dune to stretch legs and bums. But it is something to see the sunrise in Sahara :
And we were back where we started day before so now a little breakfast so grumpy middle-aged man can warm up.
So we cleared our plates and went back on the road to Marrakesh as one family and arrived only few as some L and S need to change bus to Agadir as they have left they backpacks there, some went to Fez so suddenly there was only half of us left on the bus back. WE stopped only for food and again in some touristic trap what driver told us is good but 90 dirham for tajin and only three restaurants while five minutes back is nice big town with lots of restaurants. Well we all as one family walked to the town and let the driver with his friends short. First restaurant has no menu and charged 60 dirhams so we went across the street where the local family run at least it looks that way had menu and so we all sat there to the amazement of locals who probably looked puzzled where this group of 10 people walked from 😊 we ordered so much food as we were all famished after the weightwatchers menu they fed us. It was so delicious and so much that we even gave some to local beggars as we could not finished it all. Chicken skewers, lamb skewers and some small tasty sausages, lamb cutlets, hill of cous cous, rice, salad so fresh and tasty and some fruit flavored milkshakes ahhh absoufu…glutely best food in Morocco so far and finally we told D that she can be proud as this was hospitality as we expected. The all ten of us run bill of 640 dirhams what with tip came to 700 so €70 for feast for ten people so everyone was rolling down the street like little Buddha with belly out 😊
We dropped the L and S in Ouzuza “or something like that” for their local bus what I have learned later left only at 21:00 and arrived at Agadir at 4:30 in the morning so this was truly experience of local life. Then all the way to Marrakesh most of us slept and I have done reiki as she was not feeling well on the winding roads and we had to stop to take break as she was not well. I was so worried about her that I told him that I could help her but she need to ask for it and after few back and forth conversation between him and her he said that she is shy. Well eventually the shyness left her and she received solid hour or so of healing nearly all the way to Marrakesh and also message from heaven what she said she need to hear. I was jealous and skeptical as true Italian should be but he was happy to see his love feeling better so he did not said anything but texted me later what it is and I think he wanted to learn it himself to help her again. This is the nicest gift one can receive, love made you think and do things you are sceptic of but when you see your loved ones suffer you do anything to help them. Also I learned that I need to listen to my intuition more as I felt that D needed the healing from the start I met her. I wish them both all the best and live the happy family life 😊
Well we are in Marrakesh, it is night and as five of us walked towards hostels we talked to see each other again as numbers and emails were exchanged and promises made.
And we did meet with D as he was staying one more day in Marrakesh so we met after nice long sleep till 11:00 and went to Majorelle garden which is for me personally the most awesome place in whole Marrakesh. The oasis of peace and love with energy so loving and pure that I could just sit there all day long
Pictures could not represent the true nature of this garden and it has to be seen and experienced by all senses. Hard to describe the peaceful feeling when you walk around or sit on a bench, but it is as you meditating while walking, sounds of birds, scent f flowers, earth all like you were in heaven and not in the middle of busy city where the roads run just behind the walls. In case you are in Marrakesh it would be shame to miss this gem even if it is a bit out of the way from square and traditional touristic souk and old city. I honestly cannot find words to describe it, you need to feel it! Thank you Yves Saint Loren for this gift.
The tour finished in the souk trying and tasting all the different food on the way back to hostels we had some fried fish and chicken filed pastry , beef with lentils and carrot juice so thick that it was meal itself. All for € 5 per person. D got his beard trimmed by local hairdresser and then we parted our ways as he went to hammam and I went to Bahia palace. Well now is time to plan tomorrow and next few days on the coast so bye for now the lost souls who got lost on this website and finished reading to the very end. So long for now.
